Welcome to the Albanian Town that Tourism Forgot: Gjirokastër, Albania
Welcome to Gjirokastër, Albania, where every street feels like a secret. A place where stone houses seem to grow out of the hillside itself.
Here's the real deal: Gjirokastër, Albania is what happens when a medieval town refuses to join the 21st century—and I mean that as the highest compliment.
While other Albanian towns rushed to modernize, Gjirokastër, Albania, stayed true to its Ottoman roots. Cobblestoned streets wind through a labyrinth of whitewashed houses that look like small fortresses. The architecture here is so distinctive that locals have their own architectural term—"kullas" or tower houses—with stone walls, wooden balconies, and those iconic slate roofs.
Here you’ll see grandmothers hanging laundry from 200-year-old windows, kids kicking footballs on ancient cobblestones, and family-run restaurants serving recipes passed down for generations.
Quick Facts: When to Go & What to Expect ✈️
Qjirokastër, Albania, is known as: The Stone City or The City of a Thousand Steps. It is also famous for:
- It is one of only two UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Albania (inscribed in 2005).
- Over 600 monumental Ottoman-era houses have survived for centuries.
- The birthplace of Albania's communist dictator Enver Hoxha and renowned author Ismail Kadare.
- Its unique architecture, where houses look like small fortresses made of stone.
Climate & Weather
- Summer (June-August): Hot and dry, 27-28°C (80-82°F). The stone streets trap heat, so mornings and evenings are best for exploring.
- Spring (April-May): Pleasant 17-22°C (63-72°F), flowers blooming in every courtyard.
- Autumn (September-October): Mild 21-25°C (70-77°F), golden light perfect for photos.
- Winter (November-March): Cold and wet, 9-13°C (48-55°F). The mist gives the stone city an atmospheric, almost haunting beauty.
Best Time to Visit
- Best Overall: April-June & September-October. Perfect weather (17-25°C/63-77°F), fewer crowds, everything is open.
- High Season: July-August. Expect more tourists, higher prices, but a buzzing atmosphere.
- Low Season: November-March. Cold (9-13°C/48-55°F), rainy, many places closed. But if you like moody, dramatic vibes and empty streets, this is your time.
- Festival Highlight: The National Folklore Festival happens every five years at the castle in May (next one likely 2030).
Must-See Sights: The Non-Negotiables
Gjirokastër Castle
The second-largest castle in the Balkans sits atop a hill overlooking the old town. Parts date back to the 12th century, but the Ottomans really beefed it up in the 15th century.
What you can see inside:
- An American Air Force T33 Shooting Star jet captured in 1957—yes, really.
- The Gjirokastër Museum has engaging exhibits about city life.
- Stone tunnels that are blessedly cool on hot summer days.
- Panoramic views over the Old Bazaar from the castle yard.
Entrance: 200 LEK -2.41 USD-. The hours change depending on the season.
The Cold War Tunnel (Cold War Bunker Museum)
This represents the paranoia of Enver Hoxha's communist regime.
The Cold War Tunnel is an 800-meter-long underground bunker with 59 rooms, built in secret in the 1970s as an emergency shelter in case of nuclear attack.
Unlike Tirana's bunker, this one has been left in its original state—raw, atmospheric, and genuinely eerie.
Tours: 20 minutes guided. Entrance: 200 LEK -2.41 USD-.
Skenduli House
This is the crown jewel of Gjirokastër's traditional architecture. Built 200 years ago for an Ottoman general, the house features a double-arched facade, twin towers, a Turkish bath, a wedding room, and beautifully carved wooden ceilings.
It's like stepping into someone's living history.
Entrance: 300 LEK -3.62 USD-.
Zekate House
A majestic three-story house that's said to be one of the most fascinating examples of Ottoman style in the Balkans. No electricity inside, so visit during daylight hours.
Pro tip: Follow the signs past Hotel Kalemi and head up the hill.
The Old Bazaar (Qafa e Pazarit)
The multi-sided Qafa e Pazarit is the main landmark, with most points of interest fanning out on cobblestone streets. Shops sell kaleidoscopic carpets, colorful cushions, and memorabilia. It's touristy, yes, but that's where the life is.
Gjirokastër Obelisk
Built to celebrate the Albanian language, located next to where the first Albanian-language school in Gjirokastër opened in 1908 (during Ottoman rule, Albanian was banned in schools). The views from here are spectacular.
How Long to Stay
This is a slow travel guide, so here's the honest answer: 3-5 days minimum.
Sure, you could see the castle, bazaar, and a traditional house in one day. But that would be like speed-dating the Mona Lisa. You'd miss:
- The morning light hits the slate roofs just right.
- Afternoon coffee on a terrace while old men play backgammon.
- Evening walks when the tour groups leave and the town belongs to locals.
- Day trips to nearby treasures like the Blue Eye spring or Antigonea ruins.
Stay long enough to slow down. That's when Gjirokastër, Albania, reveals itself.
To Eat: The Local's Table
Where to eat?
- Taverna Kardhashi: Family-run, authentic, and the qifqi is legendary.
- Restaurant Gjoca: Family-run with lovely, attentive hosts. Try the Djath (local sheep cheese), Imam Bajaldi (eggplant), Pasha Qofte, and Qifqi.
- Kujtimi Restaurant: Outdoor setting surrounded by vine leaves and flowers. Try the traditional rice balls (qifqi) and, if you're adventurous, frog legs (kemb bretkose). Affordable with excellent service.
- Restorant Tradicional Odaja: Cozy eatery serving authentic Albanian dishes like qifqi and lamb so tender it practically falls off the bone. Also offers vegan dishes.
What to eat?
- Qifqi (pronounced cheef-chee): This is THE Gjirokastër specialty. Balls of rice, egg, and herbs fried.
- Shapkat: Cornmeal pie with spinach, leeks, and feta cheese.
- Oshaf: Pudding made with dried figs cooked in milk and cinnamon.
- Pasha Qofte: Meatballs in rice soup.
- Djath i Bardhë: Local sheep's cheese, soft and white like feta.
Where in the World is Gjirokastër, Albania?
Gjirokastër sits in southern Albania, about 240km (149 miles) from the capital Tirana and less than an hour from the Greek border. The town is perched on the slopes overlooking the Drino Valley, with mountains rising behind it like protective walls.
- Bus from Sarandë (Albanian Riviera) 400 LEK -4.83 USD-, about 1 hour.
- From the Greek border: Only 30km away, making it perfect for a multi-country trip.
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FAQS
What's actually in Gjirokastër?
A UNESCO World Heritage hillside town with around 62,000 inhabitants, well-preserved Ottoman-era architecture, stone houses, a 12th-century castle, a traditional bazaar, an underground Cold War bunker, and magnificent mountain views. It's living history, not a museum.
Is it safe to travel to Albania right now?
Yes, absolutely. Albania remains a Level 2 destination (exercise normal precautions), and violent crime against tourists is rare. All major travel advisories point out that tourists are not widely targeted as crime victims. The biggest risk is pickpocketing in crowded areas—keep valuables secure.
What's the most beautiful town in Albania?
That's subjective, but Gjirokastër consistently ranks at the top alongside Berat. Gjirokastër, aka "The City of Stone," is one of the finest Ottoman merchant towns surviving in the Balkans. Other stunning villages include Berat (City of a Thousand Windows), the mountain village of Theth in the Albanian Alps, coastal Dhërmi, and lakeside Lin. Each has its own character.
How much time do you need in Gjirokastër?
Minimum: 2 days (one full day to see the castle, bazaar, traditional houses, bunker; one day to wander and absorb the atmosphere).
Ideal for slow travel: 3-5 days. This gives you time to explore without rushing, take day trips, eat leisurely meals, and actually get a feel for local life. There's so much to experience in Gjirokastër, Albania, that one or two days in this medieval town are enough to see it all—but "seeing it all" and "experiencing it" are different things. Stay longer.
Pamela Herrera
